Deakin University’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) has partnered with iconic fashion brand Country Road to trial a fully domestic process to transform low-grade Merino wool into high-value yarn. 

The ‘Mud to Marle’ project signifies an exciting new step in Australia’s textile industry, made possible after IFM and Full Circle Fibres secured a grant as part of the Country Road Climate Fund. 

In collaboration with textile manufacturer, Loomtex, the team have demonstrated how low-value wool can be spun into fine yarn perfect for fashion garments.  

The Mud to Marle project sought to prove the viability of end-to-end onshore production, conducting innovative trials at various locations including Deakin University’s Future Fibres Facility at the Institute for Frontier Materials. 

Despite producing world-renowned wool, Australia has limited infrastructure to process raw fibre on a commercial scale.

However, giving new life to low-grade fibres fits perfectly with IFM’s sustainability mandate and technical capacity. 

‘Deakin University is at the forefront of cotton processing and spinning innovation in Australia and has an array of textile processing equipment’, said Associate Professor Christopher Hurren.

‘During the project we wanted to explore methods that reduce resource use while still delivering a viable, high-quality textile product. One of the ways we did this was by dyeing only the wool fibres within the wool-cotton blend, reducing water and energy consumption in this process. The project shows the potential to produce garments in Australia with Australian fibres.’

Meriel Chamberlin, Full Circle Fibres owner and founder, explains that about 3% to 5% of Merino fleece consists of short fibres known as locks. 

‘These shorter fibres are perceived as having a lower value than the rest of the fleece and tend to be used in homeware and chunkier knit garments as it is difficult to process them into fine yarn. 

In our project, we sourced locks from South Australia and blended the fibres with cotton from Queensland. The wool cotton blend yarn we’ve created is finer than yarn normally made with locks. We wanted to explore methods that reduce resource use while still delivering a viable, high-quality textile product.’

The project has unlocked an additional $300,000 for a three-year industry partnership to accelerate Deakin’s research into wool cotton products.

‘The commercial spinning capacity in Australia is incredibly limited, but the learnings from this project have helped demonstrate demand and investment potential,’ said Ms Chamberlin. ‘There is growing momentum to revive Australia’s textile manufacturing capabilities.’   

With samples of the Mud to Marle wool-cotton blend now tested in prototype garments – including T-shirts, jumpers, pants, and – the project has set the stage for further innovation in circular Australian textile production. 

VNR: Deakin and Country Road Project

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